Collagen is a protein of the connective tissue, which makes up about 30% of the body’s protein for mammals. Collagen is the main biopolymer for living beings and fulfils a very important function in the correct functioning of the system. This fibrous protein of the connective tissue comprises 70% of the skin and is a necessary element of the human skeleton. Its unique physical and chemical features ensure the transfer of forces from the sinews and maintain the appropriate firmness and flexibility of the skin.
Collagen is a homogenous protein. A total of 20 genetic types of collagen have been isolated, which differ in terms of the composition of its parts, mass and length of the molecule, the composition and sequence of amino acids, degree of hydroxylation of proline and lysine radicals, degree of glycolysation of hydroxylysine radicals, spatial structure, location in the tissues and the characteristics of biosynthesis and post-translational transformations. To a small extent they differ in types of their parts, amino acid composition, other elements and the ability to create fibres. However, common for all genetic types is that they are built from three polypeptide alpha strands. What is more, in all types of collagen a substantial part of the macromolecule has a triple helix structure while the N- and C- elements have globular structures.
Collagen is a protein with a specific amino acid composition. The
protein contains a significant amount of glysine, proline and alanine,
which comprise approximately 60% of all the amino acids. In addition,
due to post-translational changes, collagen contains specific amino
acids like recurring 3- and 4-hydroxyproline and hydroxylysine. The
alpha chain contains a tripeptide sequence of glysine-X-Y, where X is
most common proline and Y the most common hydroxyproline. The alpha
chain is formed for all the amino acids, but the quantity is variable
and depends on the type of tissue, species, race and gender.
Biosynthesis
The biosynthesis of collagen begins in the polyribosomes of the endoplasmatic reticulum with the synthesis of pro-alpha 1 and pro-alpha 2 chains of procollagen of 150kDa. As the procollagen chain is enlarged some radicals of proline and lysine are hydroxylated. The medium part of procollagen chain has a constellation of sinistral, expanded helixes finished on both sides with non-braided sections, the so-called closing propeptides of type N and C. Those fragments are responsible for the proper aggregation and transport of individual chains. Thanks to the intra- and intermolecular disulfide bonds used in closing propeptides, three chains of procollagen have a parallel structure where the medium part is twisted to the right. Such procollagen is secreted through the cell membrane where two endopeptidases remove both prolonging sections. In this way fresh procollagen comes into being and undergoes polymerization to fibrils by chain and parallel connections. What is more, the consolidation of the molecule is maintained by weak interactions, i.e. hydrophobic, electrostatic and hydrogen as well as strong interactions, i.e. ionic and covalent between individual alpha chains of tropocollagen. Tropocollagen (ripe alpha molecule with collagen chains) can be a homotrimer, built of 3 identical chains or heterotrimer of 2 or 3 different chains.
Due to its biological features – non-toxicity, biocompatibility with all living beings and frequency of appearance, collagen is used as a biomaterial in medicine, pharmaceuticals and the cosmetics industry.
Collagen is not a static protein; throughout life it is continuously being exchanged. Old fibrils disintegrate and are replaced by new ones, although after the age of 25 the old fibrils begin disintegrating faster than new ones are formed. This process escalates with age and eventually leads to visible results: at first the skin is a little drier and then there are small mimic wrinkles, which later deepen.
There are many factors that lead to premature damage to the natural collagen structure, e.g. ultraviolet light, smoking, pollution, long-term work in front of a computer, stress and an unsuitable diet. It has been proved that high doses of radiation can damage the natural structure of collagen – even causing its denaturation. Research up till now has shown that solutions of collagen lose their ability to produce fibrils in the presence of high doses of radiation, and the photochemical processes result in netting, as well as in degradation. The main chromofores absorbing UVs in the collagen are automatic amino acids: tyrosine and phenylalanine. The type of photochemical reactions and their effectiveness depends on the presence of substances concurrent with this protein.
Collagen I (2[alpha1I]alpha2) contains two peptide chains of alpha 1
type I and one alpha 2 type I. Collagen I is a typical representative of
skin collagen in mammals, in the connective tissue it is linked to one
molecule of glycosaminoglycan.
Other Elements of Natural Inventia Collagen
Another ingredient of our cosmetics is lactic acid. Lactic acid is a
fruit acid belonging to the group of alpha hydroxyl acids (AHA). What is
more lactic acid is a “green” biomaterial since it is obtained from
natural sources and is fully biodegradable. The acid is obtained by
means of biotechnological fermentation of sugar by the bacteria of
lactic acid (Lactobacillus). It is worth noting that this substance has
GRAS status, which means it has been generally acknowledged as being
safe.
Lactic acid, depending on the concentration, has peeling,
regenerating and moisturizing characteristics (in our collagen it is
used for peeling and moisturizing). The acid works best at a pH of 3 to 4
(as in our product). Clinical research has proved unequivocally that
preparations containing fruit acids have a positive influence on the
condition and looks of the skin. Such preparations are recommended for
dry skin with visible signs of aging.
Preparations with lactic acid are recommended in summer and in winter
when the skin is tired by either the sun or the cold, thus requiring
special care to reduce small wrinkles or brighten small pigment spots.
Another advantage of lactic acid is that it is an effective catalyst of
transition through the skin, which means that it facilitates the
absorption of other substances, including nutritious and regenerating
ones.
Caprylyl Glycol is another ingredient of the product. It is a new
addition used to produce our collagen. Caprylyl Glycol is identical to
the natural substance, which means it is synthesised by the human body
and its structure is the same as that of a natural compound. This
ingredient, thanks to its structure, is a moisturizing (humectant) and
gently lubricating factor. The presence of short chain fatty acids
facilitates the absorption of our product into the skin and prevents
water from escaping, thanks to the gentle lubrication effect.
The last ingredient is water. In the process of producing our collagen gel we use high quality spring water from a very clean area of the country. The water has a positive opinion from the Institute of Mother and Child and it is recommended for newborns. Natural Collagen Inventia is a natural cosmetic containing 5 ingredients, the most important one being collagen as it has a structure like the native triple helix.
Natural Collagen Inventia is a natural preparation, obtained from the
skins of Hypophthalmichthys molitrix by means of gentle extraction in
the laboratory.
Usage characteristics:
- Does not contain PRIONS, a prominent ingredient in animal based collagen and other proteins use in cosmetics.
- Easily absorbed.
- ABSOLUTELY NO PRESERVATIVES.
- Does not cause skin irritation or allergies.
- Well tolerated by the skin.
- Improves the look of the skin.
- Gently peels off the epidermis and speeds renovation.
- Brightens pigmented spots and improves skin color.
- Improves the skin’s ability to hold moisture (water).
- Visibly improves the level of skin tightening (wrinkle reduction) in the area of application.
- Smoothes skin in the area of application.
- Increases skin firmness reducing the visibility of mimic wrinkles.
- Creates a protective layer preventing water from escaping through the epidermis.
- Stimulates the body to produce its own collagen.
- Recommended for intensive care of every type of complexion, especially mature, dry and sensitive skin, at home as well as in beauty parlors.
- Can be used as a component of cosmetic and pharmaceutical production.
- Does not change the color or smell of cosmetics.